Sunday, December 20, 2009

What is, Who are, Surfrider Foundation ??

Surfrider Foundation
Dedicated to the protection and preservation of our world’s oceans, waves and beaches
The Surfrider Foundation is a non-profit grassroots organization dedicated to the protection and preservation of our world’s oceans, waves and beaches.  Founded in 1984 by a handful of visionary surfers, the Surfrider Foundation now maintains over 50,000 members and 60 chapters across the United States and Puerto Rico, with international affiliates in Australia, Europe, Japan and Brazil.


Surfrider Foundation lolgo         State of the Beach 2005 Cover       Surfrider Foundation lolgo


Surfrider Foundation Principles;
Represented by over 40,000 members and 60 local chapters in the U.S., the Surfrider Foundation also has affiliations in Australia, Japan, France, and Brazil. The Surfrider Foundation has adopted the following principles to guide and govern the activities of the organization .
1. SURFRIDER recognizes the biodiversity and ecological integrity of the planet's coasts are necessary and irreplaceable. SURFRIDER is committed to preserving natural living and non-living diversity and ecological integrity of the coastal environment.
2. SURFRIDER promotes the right of low-impact, free and open access to the world's waves and beaches for all people. SURFRIDER acts to preserve this right of access.
3. SURFRIDER is dedicated to enhancing wave-riding opportunities in ways which will not adversely impact nearshore ecosystems.
4. SURFRIDER believes environmental education is essential to the future health and well- being of the planet. SURFRIDER seeks to develop and utilize educational materials that are informative, factual, proactive, synergistic and fun.
5. SURFRIDER strives to be accurate and nonpartisan in its communications with its members and the general public. In addition, SURFRIDER will express the unique values inherent in wave-riding — individualism, camaraderie, non materialism, and an appreciation for human kind's historic relations with the Ocean.
6. SURFRIDER is a grassroots organization, effective through the participation of its members. SURFRIDER activities emphasize the value of an involved membership.
7. SURFRIDER encourages all commercial enterprises to adopt the Ceres Principles. Their determination to do so will favorably influence SURFRIDER's willingness to provide support. SURFRIDER will not permit sponsors to divert the Foundation from its mission or projects undertaken.
8. SURFRIDER does not discriminate on the basis of race, religion, sex, or national origin for any reason. SURFRIDER promotes the healthy enjoyment of the coastal environment for all people.
9. SURFRIDER and its representatives, affiliations and chapters agree to abide by these principles and all rules and regulations governing non-profit organizations.

 
 
 
Surfrider Foundation Membership
 
Anyone can sign up to become a Surfrider Foundation Member. Join the Surfrider Foundation using the easy, secure (sent using SSL encryption) form. We totally respect your privacy, too. We also offer special Surfrider Foundation membership packages with Surfline, Longboard Magazine, Surfers Path magazine, and SurferMag.

All Surfrider Foundation members receive the following benefits:
   - 1 year's worth (6 issues) of Surfrider's award-winning publication, Making Waves
   - Discounts at a growing number of retailers and restaurants
   - Surfrider Membership sticker
   - Surfrider Chapter contact and volunteer information
   - For signups $100 and above, you receive a special Surfrider T-shirt
 
For complete information log on to: www.surfrider.org/
 


Great Short Story

One More Wave .....



ONE MORE WAVE
by Rebecca Heller
My arms are tired and my lips are dry. We’ve been surfing for a couple hours. It’s getting dark and I’m getting hungry. I call over to my friend, Shelly, “One more and I’m going in.” She nods at me, the sun is slipping behind Point Dume painting the sky a bright red. Sailor’s delight. Shelly picks up a wave and rides it in. I cheer for her, good ride.
I look out to the horizon. Flat. I stretch out my back and jump in the water to get the hair off my face. I sit back on my board looking out, the wind is picking up but still no waves. The salt stings my eyes; I can feel it sticking to my eyelashes and my eyebrows. I look into shore. On the beach, Shelly wraps her leash around her board. I look back out towards the horizon. Nothing.
I have time to think. My mind wanders over the day. Some good, some bad. Everything seems less urgent, less important out here. The day seems removed, like I was looking at someone else’s life, everything in perspective. I think about him. He’s across this ocean. It’s earlier there. He’s probably still in the middle of his day, still busy, still at work.
I think about paddling in. I know I can’t. Some silly, stubborn surfer rule that I have internalized. I’ll wait. The wind creates chop on the water. I see what I think is a wave and paddle for it hard. Just some wind swell, it dies out as it passes me. I look into shore, Shelly has her board on her car, she’s peeling off her wetsuit and changing into something warm.
I shiver, it’s getting darker. I see something. I paddle over, paddle hard. I feel the wave catch my board. I jump to my feet. My leash tangles around my ankles and I go down. The wave kicks me around under water, not hard, just reminding me whose boss. I come up for air mad at myself for missing the opportunity. I paddle back out.
“One more wave” has made many a surfer late to work, school, dates, appointments. We’ve amassed parking tickets and been scolded by loved ones by simply not paddling in. Things that seem important when your feet touch the sand, things that are important. But out in the water it’s all about, selfishly about, you. Man and water; man and nature. How hard, how big, how long can you go?
I peer out. Still nothing. I pick at the wax on my board. A piece of seaweed floats into my hand and start playing with it.
Shelly’s dressed. She’s in her car waiting on me. She won’t be angry, as a surfer she understands. I see something. A wave. A set. I calm myself. Pick the right one. I let the first wave go by and paddle into the second. The chop splashes drops of water onto my face. I paddle harder. The wave picks me up. I’m on my feet; I’m flying. I cruise along the face and the wave breaks in front of me. I crouch down to get around the white water and do. I’m on the inside. The wind is cold on my wet hair. I jump off just as my board gets tumbled in the beach break.
I pick up my board and step onto shore.

Monday, December 7, 2009

Who's- Who -Great Article on Stephanie Gilmore

Here's a great article  on Stephanie - Keeping with the theme of learning who's - who

After Coco Ho was eliminated in the semifinals of the Gidget Pro at Sunset Beach, Stephanie Gilmore became the first-ever male or female ASP surfer to win three world titles in as many years on Tour.

WAS THERE EVER A POINT IN YOUR LIFE GROWING UP IN NEW SOUTH WALES, AUSTRALIA WHEN YOU IMAGINED WINNING THREE WORLD TITLES?

No, I don't think there was. I think when I was young I always wanted to win and I was pretty confident I could win a world title straight off the bat, but after doing that everything sort of changed. I started thinking about everything else and what else I could achieve rather than winning multiple word titles. So yeah, it's definitely a surprise to me. I can't even really comprehend what actually happened [Saturday]. It's so cool!

CAN YOU SEE YOURSELF ONE DAY ECLIPSING LAYNE'S SEVEN OR SLATER'S NINE?
It's not something that I'm setting out to do; it's not what consumes me. But, of course, I'm not going to say no. The world titles keep coming and I keep competing. I love traveling the world to surf, and being on the ASP World Tour is pretty special right now because there are so many new avenues for us to head down and the tools are changing. I guess there are some people that think [having the most titles] will make you 'the best surfer ever,' and that's not really the way I look at it. But I'd love to win a few more.

IS THERE SOMETHING YOU WANT TO DO IN YOUR SURFING CAREER OTHER THAN WIN WORLD TITLES?
Yeah I think there's a lot more to it, especially for me. Sure I won the world title, but I came in second in almost every event this year. I wasn't winning. I wasn't the standout surfer at every event and, in my eyes, that kind of bummed me out a little bit. Next year, that's what I'll be looking at. I'll be looking to improve my technique and become more innovative. There's so much room for improvement, it's unbelievable! Also, I want to charge some big waves - I'm such a wuss! I need work on that. Going left. I need to work on that too.

OF THE THREE, WHICH DO YOU CONSIDER MOST REWARDING?
I don't know. They're all so rad in their own way! The first one was mostly a relief because a lot of my peers kind of expected me to win in the first year. In that second year, I was more of the target and everyone was trying to beat me. To defend a world title is really hard and so after I did, it was really satisfying. This time around I almost feel like I didn't really even do anything; everyone lost and I just sat there and watched. But it was satisfying and very enjoyable and I think because it is familiar territory this time around I can use [the win] to benefit the sport and not just myself.

THE NEW GIRLS ON TOUR SEEM TO BE ALL TEENS. WITH THREE TITLES, DO YOU FEEL LIKE A VETERAN?
I do! I mean, I was the oldest girl in the final of the Gidget Pro at Sunset Beach. It was solid Sunset and I was the oldest girl out there and I came in third. Everything's moving so quickly right now with this sport and these young girls are all so talented and disciplined and they know how to win heats. So, yeah. But 'veteran' is such a scary word! And 'retirement' is even scarier!
"I definitely chewed my fingernails off, but it was all worth it."
-- Stephanie Gilmore


YOU'RE 21. [LAUGHS]. DO YOU STILL CONSIDER THOSE GIRLS IN YOUR PEER GROUP, OR DO YOU SEE YOURSELF AS A COUPLE AGE GROUPS AHEAD?
I feel like I'm in the middle. There's a group of girls who have been on tour for 15, 20 years, and then a group that's been on for 10 years. Then there's a big gap before you get to me and Jessi Miley-Dyer and some of the girls floating around in that group and then there's this whole new guard of girls - heaps of them - coming in. I love hanging out with the younger girls and being fun and going shopping with Coco [Ho] and Laura, but I feel like I'm a little older. It's weird.

HOW MUCH DOES CONFIDENCE IN YOUR EQUIPMENT FACTOR INTO YOUR OVERALL APPROACH?
Having confidence in your equipment takes a huge weight off your shoulders before any heat; especially here in Hawaii. You want to know that when you're taking off at Sunset and you're doing like, a half hour long bottom turn before you can actually turnout the face, that your fins are going to stay in and that you can put it on rail and its going to respond well. That's been one of the things I've been working on with my shaper this year.

HAVE YOU CHANGED ANYTHING IN YOUR EQUIPMENT OVER THE LAST THREE YEARS?
Definitely. I think girls go through a stage, you know, where you hit puberty and grow boobs and hips, and I guess your boards get a little bit bigger at that point. Then you start to learn about why you have a concave in your board and why you want to use a shorter board in sucky waves or why a certain board is going to fit well in the pocket. Some things were always based on instinct or intuition, but now I'm learning about what I want and why. It's really important.

DID YOU HAVE BUTTERFLIES HEADING INTO THE GIDGET PRO?
I was so nervous! I remember being pretty relaxed throughout the year, and then we get to Sunset, which is so scary, and the world title is on line. The Triple Crown is on the line. There's so much that can happen. I definitely chewed my fingernails off, but it was all worth it. It's all part of the package.

DO YOU DRAW INSPIRATION FROM ANYTHING OUTSIDE OF SURFING?
Yeah. I always look at tennis and I'm such a big fan of Roger Federer. He's so incredible and I love the way he carries himself. He can be smashing somebody and not even sweating, or he'll be in a situation where he's losing and in an instant, turn it around. He's like a machine. I think that's so fascinating. And then there's Maria Sharapova who is 21 or 22 and she's the face of women's tennis. She's such a powerful woman, but still a fun young chick as well.

WHO'S SURFING WERE YOU MOST IMPRESSED BY THIS SEASON?
I'd have to say Silvana [Lima]. I mean, she's a pretty obvious pick there because something just clicked for her and now she's so confident and pushing the limits. She's going to be a threat for the next few years.

HOW AMPED ARE YOU TOO HAVE CARISSA [MOORE] ON TOUR NEXT YEAR?
Carissa is an incredible surfer. I was actually following her around a little bit at Sunset. I'll admit it. I've seen her go from a 12-year-old phenom with all the expectation that comes from that, and she hasn't cracked under all the pressure yet which is cool. That's says a lot. She's surfing really well right now and she's figuring out her boards. We went and watched New Moon together the other night. She's a cool chick.

WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE ANY IMPROVEMENTS TO THE WOMEN'S TOUR?
Of course, I'd love to see more events and beautiful waves and all the obvious stuff. But we now have a vote on the ASP board and I really think things are headed in the right direction. It's really about the ASP working with the girls to make sure we find something that suits us and utilizes all the girls on tour, their personalities, and the lifestyle that we live.

DO YOU THINK YOU PERFORM DIFFERENTLY IN AN EVENT - SAY SNAPPER OR SUNSET - THAT THE MEN ALSO COMPETE IN?
I think it's good for us to have a few events with the guys because I feel like we get more coverage that way. People who are logging online to check out the men might catch the girls too. It generates more attention for us. And then watching the guys [as a competitor] can help motivate the way we the approach a wave. It's good.

WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS HEADING INTO THE BILLABONG MAUI PRO AND PERHAPS ANOTHER TRIPLE CROWN?
I'm so excited. It's basically just going to be like having a holiday. Of course, I love Honolua Bay. It's one of the most magical places in the world, and to surf it with nobody out is really special. There's been a good swell around so I'm hoping we get some good waves too. Other than that, I'll probably play some golf and hang out.

Article from surfer website 12/3/09