Rip Current- Surf Gals Beware- Can be good and bad

Hey Gals! So this week I thought we would talk about rip currents. Annette's daughters had a run in with a rip a few days ago and since most of you are getting out on your own now I thought this would be a great topic. I found a great article from NOAA - So check it out!

Why Rip Currents Form As waves travel from deep to shallow water, they will break near the shoreline. When waves break strongly in some locations and weakly in others, this can cause circulation cells which are seen as rip currents: narrow, fast-moving belts of water traveling offshore.
Why Rip Currents are Dangerous Rip currents are the leading surf hazard for all beachgoers. They are particularly dangerous for weak or non-swimmers. Rip current speeds are typically 1-2 feet per second. However, speeds as high as 8 feet per second have been measured--this is faster than an Olympic swimmer can sprint! Thus, rip currents can sweep even the strongest swimmer out to sea.   Over 100 drownings due to rip currents occur every year in the United States. More than 80% of water rescues on surf beaches are due to rip currents. Rip currents can occur at any surf beach with breaking waves, including the Great Lakes.
When Rip Currents Form Rip currents can be found on many surf beaches every day. Under most tide and sea conditions the speeds are relatively slow. However, under certain wave, tide, and beach profile conditions the speeds can quickly increase to become dangerous to anyone entering the surf. The strength and speed of a rip current will likely increase as wave height and wave period increase. They are most likely to be dangerous during high surf conditions as the wave height and wave period increase. Diagram courtesy of the NWS Southern Region Headquarters
Where Rip Currents Form Rip currents most typically form at low spots or breaks in sandbars, and also near structures such as groins, jetties and piers. Rip currents can be very narrow or extend in widths to hundreds of yards. The seaward pull of rip currents varies: sometimes the rip current ends just beyond the line of breaking waves, but sometimes rip currents continue to push hundreds of yards offshore. Diagram courtesy of the NWS Southern Region Headquarters
How to Identify Rip Currents Look for any of these clues: a channel of churning, choppy water an area having a notable difference in water color a line of foam, seaweed, or debris moving steadily seaward a break in the incoming wave pattern None, one, or more of the above clues may indicate the presence of rip currents. Rip currents are often not readily or easily identifiable to the average beachgoer. For your safety, be aware of this major surf zone hazard. Polarized sunglasses make it easier to see the rip current clues provided above. Photo courtesy of the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Field Research Facility at Duck, NC.
How to Avoid and Survive Rip Currents Learn how to swim! Never swim alone. Be cautious at all times, especially when swimming at unguarded beaches. If in doubt, don’t go out! Whenever possible, swim at a lifeguard protected beach. Obey all instructions and orders from lifeguards. If caught in a rip current, remain calm to conserve energy and think clearly. Don’t fight the current. Swim out of the current in a direction following the shoreline. When out of the current, swim towards shore. If you are unable to swim out of the rip current, float or calmly tread water. When out of the current, swim towards shore. If you are still unable to reach shore, draw attention to yourself:  face the shore, wave your arms, and yell for help. If you see someone in trouble, get help from a lifeguard. If a lifeguard is not available, have someone call 9-1-1 . Throw the rip current victim something that floats and yell instructions on how to escape. Remember, many people drown while trying to save someone else from a rip current.
Rip Current Myth A rip current is a horizontal current. Rip currents do not pull people under the water–-they pull people away from shore. Drowning deaths occur when people pulled offshore are unable to keep themselves afloat and swim to shore. This may be due to any combination of fear, panic, exhaustion, or lack of swimming skills. Good News about Rips for Surfers Rips can be used as a means to get out the back. It will help conserve your energy but if you are new please beware. You are playing with mother nature and she can be harsh. It is good to try to use the rip when you have a partner or a lifeguard is around in case you get in trouble. Have fun surfing!! Mere

Surf Board Designs - Learn which one fits you best!

Thought this was an interesting topic about boards since we will be trying several of Austins Boards. Even though Austin has his own custom types this article will  give you an understanding of the types of boards out there! Enjoy ~ Meredith

Surfboard design!

 Different boards are made for different styles of surfing so it's a good idea to have in mind your surfing style. AKA - most of you gals would be long boarders.
Keep in mind, when you are just learning you do not want to spend a lot of money on your first board. The nuances that an experienced surfer spends the money for are missed by beginners. So save the money until you get more experience in and can appreciate the investment. A typical custom board is anywhere from 600+ Big Bucks!!
Your first board will probably take and give its fair share of abuse, so it may be wise invest in a nose guard as a beginner or start out with a foamie. There is no shame in a foamie and its safer. Lets face it gals; surf boards hurt when you fall and when you are a beginner that's going to happen.
SHORTBOARDSThe surfboard design of a shortboard ranges anywhere from about 5-9 feet, with most of them being in the 6-7 foot range. They are designed for high performance and maneuverability. Which makes them unsuited as a beginning board. The smaller size and squirrelier movement which make for great carving speed and turning ability mean that a beginner will have difficulty with the amount of floatation and the ability to paddle well. And the ability to stand up.
Waiting until you have more experience to buy your first shortboard is recommended. Trying to learn on a shortboard is a recipe for frustration. After a year or so, you can adapt to the board much better.

SOFT TOP SURFBOARDS AKA FOAMIE
A soft top surfboard is exactly what it sounds like and is the ideal board for most people to learn on. The top and rails are softer than fiberglass surfboard design, which is what makes them great for beginners. They are usually good for the skill level of beginners for your first year or so on the water.
You are much less likely to injure yourself or another surfer on a soft top. Although a thunk in the head will still have you seeing stars. You are also less likely to damage another surfer’s board with a soft top. Which means they will probably be a little more welcoming in the water when they see you on a soft top.
The soft surface means they don’t ding as easily, so when you graduate to a shortboard or longboard you can sell your soft top to another beginner and recover some of the money you spent.


FUNBOARDS 7-9ftWith a name like that they must be fun, right? Exactly. And they are great second step after a soft top board. They have enough floatation and stability for someone that is still fairly new, but enough maneuverability for someone who is gaining skill.
A funboard is something you can keep around for a long time too. Whether you decide that you want to head towards long boards, short boards or have the full spectrum, falling back on a funboard is something you can always do.
When you go to find your funboard make sure that you get 6 oz glass rather than 4 oz, because it won’t ding as easily.

LONGBOARDS
The surfboard design of a longboard is similar to a soft top board but when a board is over 9 feet long it qualifies as a longboard. Most experienced surfers have at least one longboard, even if they mostly surf shortboards. They are the veterans version of a funboard. Just about everyone loves to ride them.
They are easy to paddle and very stable. That being said, they are not the perfect choice for a beginner. Just as a beginning driver couldn’t parallel park an 18 wheeler, beginning surfers can not properly turn longboards. This makes for a danger alert. When you can make the progression from soft top to funboard and them to longboard, it’s time to add a big gun to your quiver.


FISH TAIL SURFBOARDSThe surfboard design of a fish tail originally modifies from a kneeboard design in the 60’s by Steve Lis. The fish tail is exactly what it sounds like. The tail is indented the same way that the tail of a fish is, shorter in the middle and longer near the edges.
What does this design do? It gives the ability to do roller coaster style turns at high speed. Very high speed. It does not adapt well to pivot style turns and will put the brakes on if you try it.
This is a board for experienced surfers with at least a few years of time in the water. They are extremely short in comparison to other boards. The combination of speed capability based on the tail design and maneuverability quirks because of the shaping mean this is a board for the surfer who has earned her stripes.

EPOXY SURFBOARDS
Epoxy surfboard design came out in the 70’s, but they didn’t catch on until 90’s when Surftech developed their tuflite models.
You can get epoxy surfboards in just about every style and shape. Their toughness means fewer dings, less damage and less damage to anyone else’s board.
One advantage for beginners if you know the shape you like is that epoxy boards are lighter and have better flotation then fiberglass boards. And if you get thunked in the head with an epoxy board it will hurt just a little bit less than with a fiberglass board.
The epoxy boards have a tighter flex, which as a beginner you probably wouldn’t notice. The same kind of difference between a carbon fiber tennis racket and a ceramic. When you have a lot of experience you will probably want both an epoxy board and a fiberglass board depending on the conditions.


CLASSIC SURFBOARDSJust as in fashion, surfboards must have special characteristics to actually be classics. Simply being an old surfboard design does not qualify a board as a classic. You want to avoid anything that is simply an old school replica. A classic becomes a classic because it rides well for years and years.
Longboards shaped by the likes of David Nuuhiwa and Donald Takayama are classics. These aren’t high performance, which is why Takayama calls one the “Model T.”
The breakthrough tri fin thruster from Simon Anderson is one of the most influential designs in a board in surfing history.
Skip Frye’s twin fin fish, for smooth arcing turns, was not only incredibly innovative, but is still popular today.
Al Merrick’s designs are what you would call modern classics. Used by professionals and amateurs around the world and consistently ranking as favorites.
Remember when looking at classic designs or classically inspired designs. Just because it’s old doesn’t mean it’s classic. Retro chic works on many fronts, but in your board you want performance.